Thursday, August 23, 2012

Madeleines - Petite sponge cakes with shell-like shape

The madeleines are a traditional cake from Northeastern France. They are small sponge cakes with shell-like shape because of being baked in shell shape depressed molds.
One of the histories of madeleines dates to 18 century. Madeleine Paulmier was a cook for Stanislaw Leszczyński , Duke of Lorraine, which was father –in- law of Louis XV, named them for her. Other story goes that the nuns of St. Mary Magdalen (St. Madeleine) made and sold the cakes to support them and their school.
No matter what origin is true, it is obvious that madeleines become famous by Marcel Proust’s novel, ‘In Search of Lost Time, also known as ‘Remembrance of Things Past’. 
-Sources from Wikipedia & Anna Maria’s open Kitchen

I have an old French cookbook published in 1969, La Cuisine Secrets of Modern French Cooking which has hundreds of classic recipes not only French but also all western cuisines from basic sources to dishes required professional skills. I got this madeleine recipe from the book.

Lemon & Chocolate Espresso Madeleines

Madeleines
Adapted from La Cuisine Secrets of Modern French Cooking by Raymond Oliver, 1969

Ingredients:
Yield:  24 madeleines
Baking time: 10~12min @ 375F(190C)

1 cup (130g) all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/8 tsp. salt1
1/2 cup (100g) unsalted butter
3 large eggs, @ room temperature
1/2 cup (133g) granulated white sugar2
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Instructions:
1. Melt the butter, cool it and set aside.
2.Grease two madeleine pans (12 madeleine molds each) with butter.
3. Shift the flour, the baking powder and the salt together and set aside.
4. Preheat the oven to 375F (190C).
5. In a bowl, beat the eggs and the sugar until the color of the mixture change to pale yellow for 4~5 min. 
6. Add the vanilla extract (or lemon extract + lemon zest, espresso powder + cocoa powder. See Tips for variations) to the mixture and beat to combine all.
7. Fold the flour mixture into the egg mixture and stir the batter. Don’t over-mix.
8. Add the melted butter into the batter and stir until incorporated.
9. Drop a table spoonful batter on the center of the madeleine molds and bake at 375F (190C) for 10~12min until the edges are golden brown. 

Tips:
1. Original recipe doesn’t require salt. However, without salt, the madeleines taste a little bland.
2. If you like sweeter madeleines, increase the sugar up to 2/3 cup. 
3. Variations:
    -* Lemon Madeleines
      : Add 1/2  tsp. pure lemon extract + 1 tsp. lemon zest instead of 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
    -* Chocolate Espresso Madeleines
      : Add 1 tsp. espresso powder + 1/4 cup cocoa powder

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Japanese Cheesecake - A perfect replica of Rikuro Ojisan cheesecake

Rikuro Ojisan cheesecake was one of “Must Eat in Osaka” in Japan travel guides. However, I was a little disappointed when I tried it, because I already had a similar one in Chinatown, New York.  Later, I knew the Rikuro Ojisan cheesecake was one of the cakes called as “Japanese cheesecakes “or “soufflé cheesecake”.  
The cake was light and fluffy. It was a cross between a chiffon cake and a cheesecake. The most interest thing about the cake was it could be served right out of the oven. In Osaka, Japan, there was a long line of people who waited for just-baked-cheesecakes in front of the bakery, although I preferred to one in fridge.

I was craving for Rikuro Ojisan cheesecake last week. I searched for the recipe of the cake on the internet and got this from some blog.  It was a perfect replica of Rikuro Ojisan cheesecake. 

Japanese Cheesecake

Japanese cheesecake (Rikuro Ojisan cheesecake)
Adapted from Dianna's Dessert

Ingredients:
Yield: one 9” cheesecake
Baking time: 1 hr 10min @ 325F(160C)

1/3 cup+1 Tsp1 (60g or 2oz.) cake flour
3 Tbsp1 (20g or 1oz. cornstarch
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 cup+2 Tbsp1 (140g or 5oz.) extra fine granulated sugar 2
6 egg yolks
6 egg whites
1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
4 Tbs1 (50g or 2oz.) unsalted butter
1 brick(8 oz.) +1 oz. of another brick1(250g or 9oz.) cream cheese
1/3 cup1 (100ml or 3 fl. oz.) whole milk
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp vanilla extract (optional)3

Instructions:
1. Grease a 9” spring form pan and line side and bottom with parchment paper. Place a piece of aluminum foil over side and bottom of the pan.
2. Melt cream cheese, butter and milk over a double boiler. Cool the mixture. Add egg yolks, vanilla extract and lemon juice. Set aside.
3.  Sift cake flour, cornstarch and salt. Fold the flour mixture in the cheese mixture. Mix well.
4. Preheat the oven to 325F (160C).
5. Whisk egg whites with cream of tartar until foamy. Add sugar and whisk until soft peaks form.
6. Add the cheese and the flour mixture to the egg white mixture. Mix well.
7.  Pour into a 9” spring form pan.
8. Bake cheesecake in a water bath4 for 1 hr. 10 min. at 160 degrees C (325 degrees F)

Tips:
1. I converted the original weight recipes to us standard volume measurement.
2. I ground regular granulated sugar in a food processor to make extra fine sugar.
3. I added 1 tsp of vanilla extract because the original recipe was too eggy.
4. I used a roasting pan filled with 1” water and put the cake pan on the removable rack.